How to Care for Leather?

How to Care for Leather?

Leather products have a natural appeal to men. Let’s take a look at the cleaning and maintenance methods after purchasing leather products.

 

Before starting everything, we need identify the type and quality of the leather purchased, which can be distinguished from the following aspects:

1.Different animal species, different leather quality

Different breeds of cows will produce different quality hides due to their genetics and environment. For example, Hot climates tend to have insects that bite the animal and leave scars.

 

2.Different parts of the same animal, different leather quality

Different portions of the hide also yield different quality leather. For instance, there are also more wrinkles in the hide around the legs, neck, and head. These scars and wrinkles become permanent and are almost impossible to remove in the processing of the leather.

 

 

3.Different cortexes in the same area, different leather quality.

Different layers within the hide also have an enormous impact on quality. In general, there are four types of leather. These include Full Grain Leather, Top Grain Leather, Corrected Grain Leather, and Bonded Leather. Take a look at the picture below. See how the fibers run both horizontally and vertically in different parts of the hide.

 

 

Buying leather with more horizontal fibers wears out quickly because they can readily pull apart. Vertically running fibers, however, are the strongest. In other words, the higher the number of vertical fibers, the better.

3.1 Full Grain Leather

Full-grain leather comes from the top layer of the hide. It absorbs body oils and develops a patina over time – a characteristic that attributes to its popularity.

Common Uses: Saddlebacks, sought-after leather products.

 

3.2 Top Grain Leather

Top grain is the second-highest grade of leather. Usually, to obtain top grain leather, the top layer of skin from blemished hides is split. The surface is sanded to get rid of inherent imperfections. Pigmentation or staining gives the leather an attractive look. This also makes top grain leather smoother and more flexible than the full-grain. Although this type of leather is strong and durable, it tends to stretch permanently over time.

Common Uses: Suede and nubuck-making, making high-end products such as handbags and jackets.

 

3.3 Corrected Grain (Bottom Cut/Split) Leather

Corrected grain or split leather, also known as genuine leather, is produced using the skin layers that remain after the top is split off and form the corium predominantly (see diagram above). Split leather tends to be tougher in texture due to the fact that resides under the top layers and is mostly used in applications that don’t require the leather to be soft like furniture backs and sides.

Common Uses: Making jackets, handbags/wallets, messenger bags, accessories, footwear, and furniture.

 

3.4 Bonded Leather

Bonded leather is made up of leftovers of the hide. This includes the dust and shavings. These are bonded together using polyurethane or latex on top of a fiber sheet. It is often spray-painted to look like full or top grain leather. You can’t determine the percentage of natural leather unless the manufacturer chooses to disclose it – which is very unlikely. Bonded leather is the lowest (and the cheapest) grade of leather.

Common Uses: Making furniture, bookbinding/journal, and various fashion accessories.

 

 

4.Though there are four basic types of leather, you can find a wide range of options based on the percentage of organic material, durability, and the finishing process.

 

Aniline Leather: it is one of the most expensive leathers in the world. Semi-Aniline Leather, Antique Grain Leather: Also called as distressed leather. Chrome-Free Leather, Chrome Tanned Leather, Corrected Grain Pigmented Leather, Pigmented, Leather, Crust, Latigo, Nappa Leather, Nubuck Leather, Oil-Tanned Leather, Patent Leather, Pebble Grain Leather, Pigmented Leather, Printed Leather, Pull-Up Leather, Saffiano Leather, Semi-Aniline Leather, Skirting Leather, Suede, Tooling Calf Leather, Waxy Hand Leather and so on.

Because the natural fibers of leather break down with the passage of time, we need to care for leather in daily life.

 

First step: Clean the leather

1. Start by always handling your leather with clean hands - oil and residue will easily transfer to the leather. Try to brush your leather down with a damp cloth at least once a week. Once or twice a year, remove dirt buildup by wiping down your leather bag with a cleaner made specifically for leather. Apply in a circular motion, and wipe off with a slightly damp cloth to avoid clogging the pores of the leather.  

If you are diligent about doing a quick clean of your leather then you won’t have to worry about deep cleaning later on, which is much more difficult. If dirt particles get into the leather they can cause serious abrasion from the inside.

Note: Do not use any soaps or cleansers. These types of chemicals can remove the natural oils in the leather used to preserve the material. Chemical soaps will cause the leather to dry out, crack, and begin to deteriorate. Stick with water.

 

2. IF YOUR LEATHER GETS WET, DRY IT.

Gently blot (not rub!) excess as soon as possible, and allow the rest to air dry. Do not use a heat source to speed up the drying. When drying a bag, stuff the inside with newspaper to help the bag hold its shape and to help absorb moisture from the interior. You shouldn’t put your leather by a fire, out in the sun, or near a heater to dry it off like you would with cotton or cloth. Dry your leather at room temperature by letting it sit.

Drying leather quickly will change its chemical structure, causing it to become brittle and crack.

 

3. IF YOUR LEATHER GETS TOO DRY, CONDITION IT.   

Massage a high-quality leather conditioner into the leather and use a clean cloth to gently wipe off excess.  

 

Second step: Care the leather

Conditioner Creams

Much like lotions, these products are designed to keep up the appearance and feel of your leather – making it supple and (sometimes) softer to the touch than it would be naturally. This stuff also staves off some of the negative effects your environment might have on your leather, like drying it out to the point that it cracks and/or shrinks. One thing to watch for in many conditioner creams, however, is lanolin. Lanolin is a fatty substance found in sheep’s wool that is a common ingredient in leather conditioners. While it isn’t dangerous, it will soften and moisturize your leather – which is great if that’s what you’re looking for. If you want your leather to remain a bit rigid and tough-looking and feeling, try to avoid lanolin conditioners.

 

Leather Oils

Oils are another leather conditioning option. And while you might think that cream and oil are two very different products, those with a focus on leather care are essentially one and the same.

 

Polish

While shining your shoes is certainly a way to quickly make them look sharp, technically speaking, polishing leather doesn’t actually qualify as care. You see, putting a sheen on your favorite jacket might spiff it up a bit, but the overall effect doesn’t actually protect or condition the leather at all. So, while we certainly don’t suggest against a good polish every now and again, it’s important to realize that the act of polishing doesn’t really qualify as care. That being said, some leather polishes have a moisturizing agent in them. While this is not standard, it is definitely something to look out for, especially if you don’t want to soften up your leather.

 

Waterproofing

As a natural side-effect of the material itself and the tanning process that keeps leather from putrefying, leather is naturally extremely water-resistant. It is not, however, completely waterproof. With prolonged or excessive exposure, leather will absorb water.

There are, however, it can age over time (aged leather is one of the most beautiful materials in the world). Creams and waxes are a viable option if you absolutely want to be able to wear your leather during the wetter months. We suggest staying away from waterproofing altogether as there’s no way around the fact that it will inhibit beneficial aging processes and can have a negative long-term effect on the material.

 

Third step: Store the leather

Proper storage is important when caring for leather. Store leather in a space away from heat, humidity, sunlight, and dust - preferably in a fabric (not plastic!) bag and/or box. Air leather bags, jackets, and luggage once every few weeks to prevent mold growth. Stuff your unused bag with bubble wrap to restore and hold its shape.

Store your leather purse in a dust bag or natural-fabric pillowcase. You can wrap the chrome or metallic parts — a chain handle, for example — in clean, acid-free tissue paper. If you’ve just cleaned the bag, allow it to air dry completely before storage. If you’re storing long-term, ease open the buckles and straps so impressions are released. This helps to avoid rubbing or permanent creases in unwanted areas.

 

When you care for leather properly, it will become more beautiful, rugged, and interesting over time, echoing its adventures—and yours.